Fabric Trends Trendwatch

Building a Black & White Stash
    
by Kay M. Capps Cross

The hunt for black and white fabrics makes my toes tingle! I relish evaluating new material to see if it complements my stash. While finding superior black and whites is a little tricky, it has been getting easier lately to build a basic collection.

My own stash rotates and fluctuates. When I started working with black and white fabrics, I bought every piece I could find. I especially enjoyed obtaining the same print in positive and negative tones (Fig. 1). I have since learned that buying too many opposites can be limiting. Also, in the quest for black and white fabrics, I ignored quality and differences in actual shades of black. So, if you are just starting to build a black and white stash, learn from my mistakes and you will amass a richer, broader collection! If you already have one, evaluate what you acquired and identify areas that need tweaking.

Quality is important when working with black and white fabrics. I use black for ultimate contrast, and fabric that fades quickly or loses color in a prewash isn't suitable.I do not create heirloom quilts, however; I create fun. So, if I have a fabric that I know isn't the best quality (purchased before I knew any better), but is the perfect scale and value for a project, I still use it. I have weeded out most of the inferior quality fabrics from my stash, but a few fabulous print pieces remain. Now I buy only quilt-shop quality fabrics and prewash them, avoiding those chain and discount store fabrics that are not the same quality.

Since there are currently so many choices in black and white fabrics, I look for the same shade of black—a crisp tone that leans toward navy instead of green or gray (Fig. 2). The color variation is huge, so carry a swatch of your favorite black fabric with which to compare as you shop. Among the black tones that you like, look for fabrics with value and scale differences.

Value is the intensity of the color, so choose fabrics that range from black on black to black on white. Don't be afraid to mix white and off-white in your stash (Fig. 3). Using both in scrappy quilts provides movement and depth. Scale is the size of the print, which is critical when working with black and white (Fig. 4). In color quilts, scale is less important; but in the absence of color, scale is necessary for adding interest and movement. Acquire the broadest range in scale and value to create the richest possible stash. There may be times when fabrics with the same scale are useful for creating a special mood (Fig. 5), but in general a greater variety is more beneficial. If you are limiting your fabric stash, keep scale in mind.

On the lighter side of value, shirtings are wonderful small prints with which to anchor your black and white stash (Fig. 6). I use them frequently not only for their scale, but also for the fun they provide when paired with trendier fabrics in a contemporary quilt. You can also find reproduction and contemporary white-on-black prints to use as a baseline on the dark value side. Do not neglect very large prints either (Fig. 7). They require a little more consideration for value placement, but are well worth the effort for the interest they add.  

Besides scale, seek out geometric prints, as well as flowing or circular designs. Look too for fabrics with strong straight lines, plaids, or grids in various scales to use for lattice pieces or inner borders (Fig. 8). Using these strong simple prints to complement florals, vines, and other flowing designs is essential for creating beautiful counterpoint within your quilts. I especially like the juxtaposition of vintage motifs with angular prints to create contemporary designs, so vintage fabrics are also an integral part of my collection. 

The key to an inspirational black and white stash is variety. Whether the stash is large or small, order in the chaos is necessary for optimum creativity. You can't use it if you can't find it. I maintain a semblance of order by utilizing tall white cupboards at one end of my studio. White is the perfect backdrop to see and locate the fabric I need. My black and white fabric bolts are arranged by value. Even though I mix both white and off-white in my scrappy quilts, I like to separate them for fabric selection and therefore keep them separate in my stash. Most of my shelves are filled with fabric bolts, and the rest hold clear plastic tubs with folded fabrics. To keep things fresh and somewhat controlled, I continually purge and share older pieces that I no longer find intriguing. My friends are grateful and it keeps my stash from becoming stagnant. 

A rich black and white stash doesn't have to be huge to be effective. Even a small collection can be interesting and diverse. Whatever the size, an intriguing mix of fabrics promotes creativity, ensures fun, and makes great eye candy.